![]() If you take longer, have a second beer in consolation. Time to replace a radiator or water pump, depending on your experience, allow an hour or two for each, and reward you self with a second beer if you beat that time. If the engine was at operating temperatures hot, you could have been scalded by erupting coolant, depending on the condition of the coolant. No surprise you saw some bubbling if you opened the reservoir when the engine was still hot or nearly so. These often appear soon after a t-stat replacement because the new t-stat allows the system to run at the higher design temperature and pressures causing parts weakened over time to go over the edge.) (See My photos for what the crack may look like. Look carefully for evidence of the leak under the water pump pulley and for the crack below the radiator inlet. The first two will only get worse over time. Likely causes of a slow loss of coolant include weeping water pump shaft seal, crack in driver side the radiator end tank, and loose hose clamp. On the '95 and older the ECTS does not control the temp gauge. Otherwise the temp gauge should sit around 3/8 scale, perhaps a bit higher, once the engine is fully warm. It will drop when you start moving, or after the fan comes on at just past 3/4 scale on the temp gauge (just before the red zone on the '95). Temp gauge slowly climbing above 1/2 will happen if the car is moving very slowly (e.g., less than 20 mph) or stopped in traffic. Solid light means over heating or with an A/T the ECTS and A/T temps are not in sufficiently close agreement. May be cause by actual low coolant, or a sticky float in the coolant reservoir. Here is a guide to show you how to drain the coolant before you begin: Check out the diagrams (below). If you know where I can find a wiring diagram to show me the pins on the PCM, I can check the PCM's connection.Flashing means Low coolant. There is a sensor is about 38.00 on the side of the radiator that needs to be replaced. I tried jumpering the pins on the connector for the low coolant sensor.still flashed. OK, I've VERIFIED that both sensors ARE good, as I replaced BOTH sensors with brand-new brass ones. It doesn't flash AT FIRST.exactly 38 seconds AFTER the car is started, the light begins flashing on/off/on/off. I will definately try this in a few minutes. If it still flashes then.HIRE AN EXORCIST! Check the wiring diagram and locate the in/out pins for the level sensor at the PCM and jumper them AT the PCM. Jumper the level sensor connector posts and see if the flashing stops. A magnetic float shaped like a donut triggers a reed valve inside the hollow tube to detect float position when coolant level drops below minimum. The coolant light is most likely the low coolant level sensor in the coolant container. The problem is in the WIRING or the sensor connectors for either or possibly BOTH the ECT and/or the TSS OR the PCM is getting NO SIGNAL back from the level sensor at the resevoir. The coolant light is not associated with the coolant sensor when theres a different sensor for this purpose. Plug its harness into the spare ECT and leave it hanging out in space. Reconnect the ECT connector and disconnect the TSS sensor. I have a photo of a tool I made to clean the switch - Ill post when located. You can clean the switch and may also consider refreshing the Dex-Cool. Theres a switch in bottom of reservoir that tends to stick with aged coolant. The flashing light (regular) is usually an indicator of a serious disagrement between the reads of the ECT and TTS (automatics) To figure out which one, use a SPARE ECT sensor.ฤก.With the car cold (same as outside temeprature) Disconnect the ECT from the mounted unit and install it on the spare one just hanging out in space. Re: Low coolant light on but level is fine. ![]() ![]() If teh level is low at start up, the light will FLASH at first andf THEN remain STEADY ON, to indicate the low collant level. Those cars trap air in the cooling systems when the level gets low. Just because the gauge didnt go all the way up doesnt mean much. If it overheated and has no heat Ill beat its a low coolant level. Repair the coolant sensor problem and the A/C problem should go away. Most causes of no heat are low coolant levels or blocked heater cores. Some cars will cut power to the A/C if the coolant is low, the A/C system add heat to the system. (That is how the PCM checks the sensor, the voltage should always be going thru it unless the level is low) If that is the case, jumpering the connector for the level sensor should fool the PCM into thinking all is well. The low coolant sensor uses the coolant to close the circuit, if the coolant if full you could have a problem in the wiring. ![]() It gets a voltage supply and puts it thru the sensor if the level is correct. If memory serves, the low coolant light is a THRU-PUT sensor.
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